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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.